Panissa alla Vercellese
Panissa alla Vercellese with rice toasted in duja fat and finished with red wine, soffritto prepared separately
Panissa alla Vercellese is not an enriched risotto, but an autonomous dish, built on a precise sequence of gestures. In this version, the soffritto of onion, salami and triple-concentrated tomato paste is prepared separately, while the rice is toasted in the fat released by the duja and deglazed with red wine.
The result is a panissa with more structure and depth, yet always balanced.
Preparing the beans and broth
Soak the beans for 10–12 hours. Cook them starting from cold water with onion and bay leaf, without salting or with minimal salt.
At the end of cooking:
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separate the beans from the cooking liquid
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blend a small portion of the beans to add body
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adjust the broth to 6 g of salt per litre
Keep the broth hot throughout the preparation.
Preparing the soffritto (separately)
In a wide saucepan or pan:
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remove the casing from the salami and crumble it
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melt it gently starting from cold, without adding fat
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add the finely chopped onion
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let it soften slowly without browning
Add the triple-concentrated tomato paste and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until it loses its acidity and binds with the salami fat.
Turn off the heat and set aside.
Toasting the rice and deglazing
In a large saucepan:
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take 1–2 tablespoons of duja fat or the fat released during the soffritto
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add the rice and toast it thoroughly
When the grains are hot and translucent, deglaze with red wine and let the alcohol evaporate completely.
Cooking the Panissa
Add to the rice:
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the prepared soffritto
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the whole beans
Start cooking by adding hot broth gradually, as with a risotto. Total cooking time follows Carnaroli rice (16–18 minutes), but should be adjusted by texture.
The panissa should be:
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compact yet soft
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cohesive
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not dry
Resting and serving
Off the heat:
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a grind of black pepper
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no butter or cheese finishing
Let rest for 2–3 minutes before serving.
Final considerations
Preparing the soffritto separately allows:
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better control over tomato cooking
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cleaner rice toasting
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a clearer structure in the final dish
Panissa alla Vercellese remains a dish of restraint: rustic in origin, precise in execution.
Original article: wanph.blogspot.com