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Aubergine Caponata

I deliberately leave out quantities: I go by eye and use what I have available.

Method

The aubergines are the heart of the dish. I fry them in an iron pan with a thin layer of extra virgin olive oil, either in slices, halved or diced, depending on the type of aubergine.

I slice the celery and briefly boil it in salted water with plenty of vinegar. It should stay crisp. I reserve the cooking liquid.

In the pan used for the aubergines, I gently cook the thinly sliced onions with a little sugar, adding some of the celery cooking liquid and, if needed, more vinegar.

I vary the way I use tomatoes: I might add them to the onions to make a sauce, use a little triple-concentrated tomato paste just for colour and flavour, or add fresh tomato strips or cubes when combining the ingredients. Sometimes I do a bit of everything.

I combine the aubergines, celery and cooked onions in a bowl. I add the olives, pine nuts or almonds—preferably toasted—and the herbs. I taste the caponata before adding any more oil, vinegar or salt, and add them only if needed. The oil from frying the aubergines may already be enough, as may the vinegar used for the celery and onions.

I leave it to rest for a long time before serving: even a full day improves the dish.

Variations

Sultanas are almost a regular addition rather than a true variation. I soak them in some of the celery’s vinegar cooking liquid before adding them to the caponata.

Fish or seafood can be added just before serving: prawns briefly poached in water or steamed, or swordfish or mahi-mahi fillets cooked on a griddle or grill.