Flour and water — a matter of proportions
Farinata, panissa, testaroli and castagnaccio: four notes starting from 100 g of flour.
Flour and water, in the right proportions, are almost a recipe in themselves. Change the flour, the amount of water, the thickness and the cooking method, and a few simple ingredients become very different dishes.
This is, above all, a formula to remember and adapt. Everything starts with 100 g of flour; texture and experience suggest the small adjustments.
The proportions
All quantities are based on 100 g of flour.
| Preparation | Flour | Water | Salt | Extra virgin olive oil |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Farinata | 100 g chickpea flour | 300–330 g | 2.5 g | 10 g in the batter + 20 g in the pan |
| Ligurian panissa | 100 g chickpea flour | 330–350 g | 2 g | — |
| Testaroli | 100 g spelt / Einkorn / Kamut flour | 140–160 g | 2 g | — |
| Thin castagnaccio | 100 g chestnut flour | 180–200 g | 1 g | 10 g |
| Thick castagnaccio | 100 g chestnut flour | 150–170 g | 1 g | 10 g |
Farinata
Method
Mix the chickpea flour with the water until smooth. Leave to rest for 4–8 hours.
Skim off any foam from the surface, then add the salt and the oil for the batter.
Spread the remaining oil over the pan and pour in the batter to a depth of about 4–5 mm.
Bake in a very hot oven at 240–250°C for about 12–18 minutes, until golden on top and crisp around the edges.
Notes
The amount of water also depends on how coarse or rustic the flour is. Start with 300 g and gradually increase to about 330 g if needed.
For a 32 cm round pan:
120 g chickpea flour · 360–400 g water · 3 g salt · 12 g extra virgin olive oil in the batter · 24 g extra virgin olive oil in the pan
Variations
Freshly ground black pepper, added just after baking.
Rosemary, onion or spring onion can be added before baking.
Ligurian panissa
Method
Mix the flour and water until smooth. Leave to rest for 30–60 minutes.
Add the salt and cook in a saucepan over low heat, stirring regularly, for about 30–40 minutes.
The panissa is ready when it becomes a dense mass and starts pulling away from the sides of the pan.
Pour into a container while still hot, to a depth of about 1.5–2 cm. Leave to cool and set completely before cutting.
Notes
Panissa can take two different paths.
Fried. Cut the cold, firm panissa into sticks or diamonds and fry until golden and crisp. Salt as soon as it comes out of the oil.
As a salad. Cut into cubes or diamonds and dress with fresh spring onion, fresh marjoram, extra virgin olive oil, salt and black pepper. Leave for a few minutes before serving.
Variations
For the salad, a few drops of vinegar can add a little acidity. Keep it restrained: the dressing should remain simple.
Testaroli
Method
Mix the flour with the water and salt to make a smooth batter, fluid but not watery.
Leave to rest for 30–60 minutes.
Pour onto a very hot testo or frying pan, without fat, to a thickness of about 2–4 mm. Cook for approximately 3–5 minutes on each side.
Leave to cool and cut into diamonds.
Before dressing, briefly dip the testaroli in very hot water, without boiling them for any length of time.
Notes
150 g water for every 100 g flour is a good starting point, not a rule.
Spelt, Einkorn and Kamut absorb water differently. Texture matters more than mathematical precision: the batter should pour easily and spread while still retaining some body.
Variations
Spelt, Einkorn and Kamut can be used individually or blended.
Note the actual amount of water used each time: little by little, each flour develops its own personal ratio.
Castagnaccio
Flour and water again, this time with the natural sweetness of chestnuts.
Two textures: thin, Ligurian-style, or thicker and softer.
Method
Sift the chestnut flour and gradually whisk in the water until smooth.
Add the salt and leave to rest for 20–30 minutes.
Oil the baking pan and pour in the batter to the desired thickness. Scatter fresh rosemary and pine nuts over the surface and finish with a drizzle of olive oil.
Bake the thin version at about 200°C for 20–25 minutes.
Bake the thicker version at 180–190°C for 30–40 minutes.
In both cases, small cracks on the surface and well-cooked edges are a good sign that the castagnaccio is ready.
Notes
For thin castagnaccio, remember:
100 flour · about 190 water
For the thicker version:
100 flour · about 160 water
Chestnut flour already brings all the sweetness needed: no added sugar.
Rosemary and pine nuts are the reference combination. Keep the ingredients few and let chestnut, olive oil and rosemary remain distinct.
Variations
Raisins, soaked and thoroughly dried, either in the batter or scattered over the surface.
Walnuts, roughly broken.
Pine nuts, raisins and walnuts can all meet in the same castagnaccio, but they do not have to. The essential version remains rosemary and pine nuts.